Spathiphyllum is experiencing a wave of popularity again: from now on it is not a plant from grandmother’s windowsill, but a piece of neotropics in stylish interiors of modern people. This is fine because:
- Caring for spathiphyllum is simple even for novice growers: do not forget to water the soil and humidify the air, and spathiphyllum will always be happy and green;
- Spathiphyllum is beautiful and photogenic. It combines very interesting shapes: rich green leaves growing straight from the roots and ears covered with a delicate white blanket. The latter served as the name of the plant: the Greek “spate” and “phillon” mean “veil” and “leaf”;
- Even if the spathiphyllum does not bloom, the dense foliage of a bizarre, sharp shape itself gives a decorative look;
- To see the unusual flowering of your plant, you need to give it enough moisture and light, and also, of course, wait for the flowering period itself (from April to July).
Signs and superstitions have long and firmly combined spathiphyllum and anthurium into a harmonious union, which, by the way, we wrote about not so long ago. Anthurium with its rich and voluminous red flowers was customary to call “male happiness”, but a gentle and quivering bushy spathiphyllum – “female happiness”.
Many people buy them together or even try to grow them in the same pot, but the plants ironically point to irreconcilable contradictions in male and female: they still need different care. Therefore, you will accept that you can follow in a more democratic way, simply by giving “female happiness” to young girls. A beautiful legend tells us that the flower was imprinted with the great love of the goddess Astarte on her happy wedding day..
All those who live outside popular beliefs simply value the neighborhood with spathiphyllum in their apartment: this flower looks great in any interior due to the noble combination of white and greenery. We also offer you to master the simple care of spathiphyllum and decorate your home with it.!
If you have a south-facing window, clear the window sill for your new tenant: female happiness is happy to “consume solar energy”!
For normal growth and quality flowering, the plant requires bright sunlight. Of course, you should exclude the scorching midday sun in summer, as the foliage can burn out. The rest of the time – the more light the better.
To achieve longer flowering times as well as a healthier appearance, the light must be diffused.
If spathiphyllum at home is forced to be content with the darkened part of the apartment, it is unlikely to bloom actively, and the foliage will begin to stretch and darken.
The owner of female happiness does not need to change habits if the plant is in a living room: 22 degrees Celsius is an excellent temperature for growth. A discrepancy of several degrees below or above is acceptable.
- Temperatures below 16 degrees can slow down the growth of spathiphyllum. At temperatures below 12-10 degrees, rotting of the soil and roots may begin.
Draft is also not the best friend of spathiphyllum, however, like almost any houseplant. Ventilate the room carefully, keeping an eye on the plant pot..
In the summer, you can take the spathiphyllum to the balcony / terrace / garden: usually the plant tolerates such a “vacation” well.
Photo of spathiphyllum in the interior
Spathiphyllum loves water, so if you care for different plants that do not require frequent watering (succulents, for example), then do not forget to water the spathiphyllum a little more abundantly and more often.
In the summer, watering spathiphyllum is necessary every 2-3 days. In autumn and winter – every 3-5 days.
Do not forget that the plant watering schedule is individual. Just check the condition of the ground: it should not be dry.
- Avoid the other extreme by flooding the plant abundantly over the edge. If the water in the sump is constantly standing, and the ground is very wet, the roots can rot. This can be seen if the leaves of spathiphyllum suddenly begin to darken..
A simple and very important rule for all indoor plants: Defend water for irrigation. Freshly drawn water from a cold tap will not work.
Spathiphyllum is definitely happy with the abundant moisture and thanks the owners for the frequent “spa treatments” with abundant flowering.
The spray bottle is the number one tool in plant care: spray the foliage generously every day. In summer, occasionally you can gently bathe spathiphyllum under a warm shower..
- In the warm season or with very dry air in the room, you can make a simple humidification system: pour expanded clay into the pallet, and set the pots on top. By adding water to the pebbles, you create a natural air humidification effect.
Caring for spathiphyllum after purchase does not imply top dressing: there are already active fertilizers in the store soil mixture. Wait a few weeks, and if the flower was bought in the cold season, then it is better to start feeding in the spring..
The feeding time is from March to September (once every 1-2 weeks). In winter, feeding may be needed if the spathiphyllum has bloomed. But even in this case, no more than once a month.!
Choose a fertilizer from complex flowering plant mixes. Remember that spathiphyllum is an aroid plant: this will help you find suitable mineral supplements. Some growers alternate mineral fertilizers and mullein in solution. Both types of fertilizer are applied as follows: first, spathiphyllum is watered abundantly so that water spills through the pots, then fertilizer is applied according to the scheme indicated on the package, and then the soil is again shed with water.
Photo of spathiphyllum in the interior of the kitchen
- A tree in a room: how to care for Benjamin’s ficus at home
- How to care for geraniums at home – a beginner’s guide
- How to care for orchids – 7 steps for a beginner
- How to care for violets at home
The beginning of the resting phase in spathiphyllum is November, it traditionally ends with the arrival of March. While the plant is at rest, it does not need fertilization at all, and the frequency of watering should also be reduced. Both, while the plant is “sleeping”, can destroy it.
Photo of spathiphyllum in the interior
Transplanting a young plant
While the plant is gaining strength and developing, it needs to “expand the living space.” Every spring, it is advisable to change the pot to a new one, slightly larger than the previous one. Of course, along with the pots, you need to change the soil..
- If you transplant a small plant straight into a very large pot, it will throw all its energy into the development of the root system and will not bloom. We increase volumes gradually.
Transplanting an adult plant
When the spathiphyllum has already stopped in active growth and has grown stronger, replacing the pot is no longer necessary. However, annual soil replacement will not be superfluous. This should also be done in spring..
- Prepare the pot by pouring drainage stones on the bottom.
- Fill with a soil mixture suitable for aroid plants.
- For those who want to prepare the soil on their own: deciduous soil + sod soil + peat + river sand + humus (all in equal shares).
- We handle the spathiphyllum, carefully freeing the roots from clods of earth.
- Install in a new pot in the center.
- We tap the pot until it shrinks completely, sprinkle it with earth until the end.
After transplanting, we surround the plant with care: we slightly increase watering and spraying, we protect it from drafts. In the early days, you can even hold the spathiphyllum under the film, be sure to open it to breathe a couple of times a day.
Reproduction of spathiphyllum at home is possible in two ways: by cuttings and division.
Method 1. Propagation by cuttings
Stage 1. Extension of roots
In order for us to have viable offspring, we need to get cuttings of spathiphyllum and grow roots to them. To do this, the cuttings are first planted in the sand, constantly moistening it and keeping it warm (development takes place at 22 degrees and above).
Stage 2. Landing in the ground
Once the roots have appeared, the cuttings can be planted in the ground. It is convenient to plant them in small plastic cups or individual pots filled with soil mixture (2 parts leafy soil + 2 parts peat soil + 1 part turf + 1 part sand).
Method 2. Reproduction by division
If you are transplanting an adult plant in the spring, which is a little crowded in a pot, it will be very useful to separate its roots. Divide so that 2-3 sheets remain on one new part. The resulting delenki must be planted in individual pots (everything is as in the paragraph “planting in the ground” in the paragraph above).
Most often, spathiphyllum does not feel well with a lack or excess of basic factors: water, light and fertilizers. Let’s consider the most common “complaints”:
Spathiphyllum leaves turn black
Blackening of spathiphyllum leaves is almost the most common care problem. She says that the root system is dying off in the plant..
- Check the temperature regime, and also if you are pouring the flower, if there is water in the pots and pallets all the time. Also, often the leaves of spathiphyllum turn black due to lack of light..
It is best to remove the plant from the pot, check the roots, remove the damaged ones and transplant into a pot with new soil..
Spathiphyllum does not bloom
If your “new” spathiphyllum is not blooming, do not despair. The first time after purchase, it does not bloom so often. However, if we are talking about a long-established plant, then fertilization can be tried for its flowering. Also spray generously the leaves of the spathiphyllum and check if it is cold in its usual place..
Spathiphyllum leaves tips dry
If the leaves are dry and start to crumble and resemble chips, your spathiphyllum may be suffering from poor soil and dry air. The solution is top dressing and regular spraying.
Brown spots on the leaves
This is a common sign of overfeeding. Obviously, you overdid it with mineral fertilizers..
Leaves curl and turn white
Too active sun can give such an effect. Shade the bush, do not expose to the scorching rays.
Why do spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow and wither?
Most often this is an indicator of insufficient watering. Don’t forget that your spathiphyllum is a moisture lover! Gradually (not immediately!) Increase the volume and frequency of watering to the recommended.
In all cases, remove damaged leaves without regret.
Types of spathiphyllum
There is a stunning variety of these evergreens in the tropical wildlife. But already in indoor plant growing, several types of spathiphyllum have been fixed, which are most often found in houses and grow well on our windowsills..
Spathiphyllum abundantly flowering
It lives up to its promising name by raising bright white perianth coverings above the plant. They bloom almost all year round. For this, perhaps, spathiphyllum is loved by flower growers: with good care, this variety is very generous for a bright flowering period.
Spathiphyllum adorable (pleasant)
It is impossible to pronounce this touching name without a smile, and it is again quite justified: the spathiphyllum of this species pleases not only with its rich foliage, but also with a very long flowering. But his perianths are not white, but greenish in color, which is very unusual.
The leaves of this spathiphyllum have an elongated shape, similar to canna leaves, hence the name. The ear of spathiphyllum is covered with a green veil from the inside and white from the front. It is noteworthy that when flowering, the plant emits a pleasant aroma.!
This variety is already the fruit of crossbreeding work. As a result of selection, this spathiphyllum has motley striped leaves of white-green color. The plant looks very unusual and catchy.!
The work of Dutch breeders in this case was rewarded with the amazing appearance of the spathiphyllum. Both the leaves and the bract are randomly painted with large white spots-patterns, as if the artist made sweeping strokes with a brush.
In Brazil, researchers stumbled upon another type of spathiphyllum, which is large in size: a lush bush sometimes reaches a meter in height.
Keep in mind that spathiphyllum juice is poisonous: place the pots out of the reach of cats and small children! Also wash your hands after transplanting a plant or other work with it: scratching your eyes or putting juice into a wound on the skin can get severe irritation or even burns..